summerizing sled

maxwell

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seems like my sleds are always in a million peices all summer so no need for summarization.

BUT

grease all the fittigns to force all the water out and start it up every few weeks is all i do.

dont care for fogging engines etcetc
 

TheLonelyIsland

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here's what i do , fog the engine , add sta-bil to the gas and make some wooden plugs for the exhaust so no mice make nests! tarp it and track-jack it!

remind me not to buy a sled of maxwell! lol
 

retiredpop

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In addition to above if it is going to be stored outside then fog the engine for sure. Fill oil and gas tanks to minimize condensation inside the tanks and add stabilizer to the fuel. If it is stored inside then fogging should not be necessary.
 

Modman

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I still fog' em even when stored inside because of the changes in humidity over the summer, the fogging oil puts a nice film on the internal motor parts to avoid dry start in the fall and prevents condensation from latching onto the metal. Some people pull the plugs so that the cylinders do not build up condensation either, you can get these "dryers" that have a dessicant in them that screw into your plug holes instead. If you pull the plugs, make sure you cover the head with something breathable to prevent dust and spiders from getting in there.

Here's what I do:

Clean the sled thoroughly and polish it, oil any ball joints in the steering and lube any pivot points, and as stated grease everything else to ensure water is pushed out. Top up all fluids, rotate things like the secondary to coat the chain in the case and get some lube on the seals to keep them from drying out. Drain carbs, turn fuel petcock to off position. Take the belt off, loosen track tension. jack up front and rear and let springs sag out all the way, then lower bulkhead onto blocks and let skis hang and leave rear on trackstand. Double check all nuts and bolts and lube all nuts and bolts, make parts list and start ordering things, fix whatever I can right away or over the summer so I spend as much time riding and not as much time fixing.

Cover sled with sheet. About monthly I slowly rotate the motor over by hand (in the forward direction) just a couple rotations and about mid summer I will add a small amount of oil to the cylinders as well and roll the motor over. Usually there are little puddles of oil by the crank bearings and this just moves the oil up to the top of the crank bearings and then it will slowly trickle down to the bottom over the next little while, kinda just keeps things with a thin film of oil on them and keeps seals from drying out as well IMO. Also helps re-distribute the oil around on the cylinders as well.

I will roll the secondary over at that time as well, to keep the chain and bearings lubed and to keep the track from sitting on the drivers and the idlers in one spot for a long period.

I don't start it until the fall, no point IMO, heating and cooling the motor for a short timeframe only attracts moisture.
 

CUSO

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I clean it up nice, grease everything that needs grease, fill the oil, lube the ball joints, elevate the track and lift the chassis so the suspension is fully extended. I also turn down the springs on suspension, kinda keeps them less compressed... Fuel stabilizer, warm up well and fog the motor.
I then put the sled in the corner of my garage, with the tarp on it, and put a rag in the exhaust outlet.... and forget about it until the fall.. :beer::d
 

PowMower

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I usually empty my old beer cans out of the trunk so it doesn't get all moldy, throw the cover on it and that's it for the summer.
 

Warhawk

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I still fog' em even when stored inside because of the changes in humidity over the summer, the fogging oil puts a nice film on the internal motor parts to avoid dry start in the fall and prevents condensation from latching onto the metal. Some people pull the plugs so that the cylinders do not build up condensation either, you can get these "dryers" that have a dessicant in them that screw into your plug holes instead. If you pull the plugs, make sure you cover the head with something breathable to prevent dust and spiders from getting in there.

Here's what I do:

Clean the sled thoroughly and polish it, oil any ball joints in the steering and lube any pivot points, and as stated grease everything else to ensure water is pushed out. Top up all fluids, rotate things like the secondary to coat the chain in the case and get some lube on the seals to keep them from drying out. Drain carbs, turn fuel petcock to off position. Take the belt off, loosen track tension. jack up front and rear and let springs sag out all the way, then lower bulkhead onto blocks and let skis hang and leave rear on trackstand. Double check all nuts and bolts and lube all nuts and bolts, make parts list and start ordering things, fix whatever I can right away or over the summer so I spend as much time riding and not as much time fixing.

Cover sled with sheet. About monthly I slowly rotate the motor over by hand (in the forward direction) just a couple rotations and about mid summer I will add a small amount of oil to the cylinders as well and roll the motor over. Usually there are little puddles of oil by the crank bearings and this just moves the oil up to the top of the crank bearings and then it will slowly trickle down to the bottom over the next little while, kinda just keeps things with a thin film of oil on them and keeps seals from drying out as well IMO. Also helps re-distribute the oil around on the cylinders as well.

I will roll the secondary over at that time as well, to keep the chain and bearings lubed and to keep the track from sitting on the drivers and the idlers in one spot for a long period.

I don't start it until the fall, no point IMO, heating and cooling the motor for a short timeframe only attracts moisture.

everything he said but i actually measure the front spring settings(cat fox shocks ) and turn them right down so there is no pressurre on the spring.


One other thing i have done for many years is i make a juice called WITCHES BRU:beer: This is something that has been used in the Marine indusrty for years to help store engines and especially EFI ones.

for a sled take and leave about 4liters in a jerry can add fuel conditioner at the recomended amount for 4 liters (be careful with the BRP conditioner it is really good stuff but if you way over do it. It will turn into a waxey product and coat everything not good) Next take a can of fogging oil and spray all into the can. Next take 2 stroke oil and mix down to a 25 to 1 ratio.

then Shake NOT STIR :d

run the engine on this mix. you will find that the engine will start to smoke quite abit. once the engine is at operating temp and you rev it up it smokes good you can shut it down. If you want you can put oil down the cylinders but i find it is not needed. The nice thing about this way is you will never have carb problems again as the mixture has a film of oil this covers the mains/piolts and other carb parts which prevents oxygen from getting on them and turning them GREEN. Take the rest of the mixture and leave it in the tank or siphon it out and use it in the next one or anything else that you are putting away. if you have any left over put it in your lawnmower.:d

the new etec's have a self oiling summerizing program. But you still need to do the other basics that are mentioned here.
 
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