RZR seatbelt
- Thread starter bbtoys
- Start date
99summitx
Active VIP Member
My Teryx driver's side is stuck all the way out, won't recoil, have cleaned a couple times. Guess there not made to be submerged in mud.
- Moderator
- #3
)
DaveB
Active VIP Member
My buddy's RZR belts plugged up and quit working after the first season. He's replaced them with 4 pt harnesses.
sumx54
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2007
- Messages
- 5,479
- Reaction score
- 5,702
- Location
- Rocky Mountain House
- Website
- www.absoluteadventure.ca
I have lots of trouble with the seatbelts on my rentals too 
What happens is the little mechanism that make it Lock on impact, becomes full of mud and the only way to get it clean is to remove the sucker and take it apart to clean it properly. When you wash your rzr be sure to always pull the belt out and clean it well while its spooled out. 4 pt harness might be the way to go alright.
What happens is the little mechanism that make it Lock on impact, becomes full of mud and the only way to get it clean is to remove the sucker and take it apart to clean it properly. When you wash your rzr be sure to always pull the belt out and clean it well while its spooled out. 4 pt harness might be the way to go alright.
Chrisco
Active VIP Member
- Thread starter
- #7
sumx54
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2007
- Messages
- 5,479
- Reaction score
- 5,702
- Location
- Rocky Mountain House
- Website
- www.absoluteadventure.ca
Barry I just had to do this on my rental RZR tonight. I took some pictures for the next guy that has this trouble. Its a beer and a half job (30 minutes). Some guys just leave the locking mechanism out when they put it back together but doing that pretty much defeats the purpose of having a seat belt. The quote I got today for a 4 pt harness was $199 per side.
1: remove enough of the bolts and plastic rivets from the rocker panel to access the 11/16 nut on the lower seat belt mechanism.
2: remove the nut and pull the unit out to where you can get at at (no need to remove the top off the roll bar) cut a small slot in the plastic housing with some snips in order to access the reel.
3: use a screw driver to pry off the end cap of the reel.
4: remove the small locking assembly, clean it up and re-assemble.
Attachments
5 point mounting: Lap belts typically just bolt into the same place as your current lap belts, shoulder straps need to be mounted securely on a similar parallel to shoulder height. Lots of people mount them too high or too low. Sub belt needs to be mounted in floor, you can just buy a 5 point and not use the sub belt. You can learn all about how to properly mount a 5 point here - Racer's Choice Inc. go to "technical help", then click on "driver restraints", it will tell you the proper way to mount them (no side loading!) and how to lace buckles. You can buy a 5 point at race suppliers like Mopac for around $100 or order from Summit Racing.
I have 2 RCI five-point racing harnesses, complete with sub-belts (these belts are from 2 of my race cars). The harnesses are in perfect condition and have never been involved in a wreck. always stored inside, not left in the car. They were drilled to accept larger grade 12 (nothing but the best and safest) mounting hardware (stock car seat belt fasteners) in the flanges. Most sanctioning bodies require that race cars replace the belts every 2 years, so these ones were removed and replaced to comply with the rules, no other reason. Like new. $50 each.
- Thread starter
- #10
No worries, PM me when you are coming down.
Pupjoint
New member
I'm running 5 point Simpson harnesses (not using the crotch one though), there awesome.
I got the Crow 4points plus the sub straps. Havent tryed the sub straps yet but the rest of the harness is great. Make sure you opt for the sternum strap, a friend of mine didn't and he has issues with shoulder straps slipping off.
Similar threads
