new motor assembely

[maxwell]

i got a rebuilt bottom end and had my cylinders bored and matched with wiseco pistons.

just want to make sure im not forgeting anything as i put this together..



ok...so

-clean the cylinders with soap and water
-small bit of oil on the base gasket
- pistons in with arrow towards exhaust
-add oil to first tank of gas
- hook up oil injection and bleed with the large screw. then hold it wide open while the engine is running for a couple minuts.
-top up coolant and run the sled with the front end in the air and bleed air out/



any other tips would be great.

should you put a little bit of oil on the cylinder walls when putting the pistons in?

 

[Paininthe#$%]

Fill each section of the crank case with mixing oil (2 cylinder engines should have 2 sections...etc...). Add just enough oil so that when you rotate the crank it gets covered with a light film of oil.

If your engine was getting enough oil you should have been able to notice oil in the bottom of the crank when you tore it apart.

 

[glengine]

There is a breather tube that comes out of your crank cases right above your oil injection pump.. Make sure to put oil in there as it lubes the cneter gear on your crank that runs the oil inj pump and water pump.. Once the hose is hooked back up to you oil inj tank you can prime it with a pair of pliers.. If you start sled and let it idle and come to temp then shut it off and let it cool completely off to cold then do this again, do this like three times.. This is one of the better ways to get your rings to start seating..

 

[ZRrrr]

Not to start a big debate on engine breakin....well ok....I used to do it this way but then was ltold the advantages to doing it with slight load on the engine, as in on a dyno or out in the yard. Start with up to 1/2 throttle for first warmup, then up to 3/4 for second and a couple quick wide opens for third. Seating rings under load is supposed to seat them more realisistically.

I know....we all have an opinion.

 

[snowzombie]

I know....we all have an opinion.

As said it may just be an opinion, but....
Oil on the base gasket? I've used Permatex High tack spray on gaskets and oil on bolt threads, but whats the purpose of puttting it on a gasket?
Opinion again but never had alot of luck with Weisco, forged pistons seem to expand more than the recomended clearance allowed. Hopefully whoever did your bore carefully measured each piston and went to the high side with the clearance.
All good advice from everyone so far, as far as assembly and break in, might as well add my 2 cents.
A little of whatever brand of oil you are using to coat cylinder walls and pistons during assembly also upper rod bearing and a couple drops on the lower wont hurt as well.
If possible fasion a coat hanger so you can hook the arm on your oil pump and when you start it bring the RPM up to 2500-3000 and pull the oil pump wide open. This will feed lots of oil into the motor once you get a heavy smog and temp comes up let the oil pump back off and shut it down, let it cool off and check coolant level. Run it up again with the front end down on the ground and recheck evrything. premix first tank 100:1.

 

[maxwell]

Fill each section of the crank case with mixing oil (2 cylinder engines should have 2 sections...etc...). Add just enough oil so that when you rotate the crank it gets covered with a light film of oil.

If your engine was getting enough oil you should have been able to notice oil in the bottom of the crank when you tore it apart.

this is a new bottom end. but yeah the old one had oil in the bottom. so basically your saying just put a litle in each side on the bottom so it touches the crank

 

[maxwell]

As said it may just be an opinion, but....
Oil on the base gasket? I've used Permatex High tack spray on gaskets and oil on bolt threads, but whats the purpose of puttting it on a gasket?
Opinion again but never had alot of luck with Weisco, forged pistons seem to expand more than the recomended clearance allowed. Hopefully whoever did your bore carefully measured each piston and went to the high side with the clearance.
All good advice from everyone so far, as far as assembly and break in, might as well add my 2 cents.
A little of whatever brand of oil you are using to coat cylinder walls and pistons during assembly also upper rod bearing and a couple drops on the lower wont hurt as well.
If possible fasion a coat hanger so you can hook the arm on your oil pump and when you start it bring the RPM up to 2500-3000 and pull the oil pump wide open. This will feed lots of oil into the motor once you get a heavy smog and temp comes up let the oil pump back off and shut it down, let it cool off and check coolant level. Run it up again with the front end down on the ground and recheck evrything. premix first tank 100:1.

yeah ive heard bad things about wiseco to. but the last time i rebuilt this motor ( 4 years ago and manmany miles) i used wiseco with the same company doing the rebore and the thing was bulletproof until the crank went. i thought when i tore it apart 4 years later it would need new pistons anyways but it still had 150psi and not one mark or scar on either piston, they looked brand new. i just warm the sled up really well everyday and it seems to have worked well. i think the machine shop really knows what htey are doing.

as far as the base gasket....the last guy that helped me rebuilt it the first time just sort of put his finger in the oil and rubbed a bit on it. i didnt ask any questions because it didnt ever leak and it was a cardboard gasket.

 

[maxwell]

Not to start a big debate on engine breakin....well ok....I used to do it this way but then was ltold the advantages to doing it with slight load on the engine, as in on a dyno or out in the yard. Start with up to 1/2 throttle for first warmup, then up to 3/4 for second and a couple quick wide opens for third. Seating rings under load is supposed to seat them more realisistically.

I know....we all have an opinion.

yeah there are so many ways to do it i dont know who to beleive ahha. but i just ran mine exactly how i would ride it normally( hard) but only held it wide open for a second. never for a long period of time. and it worked so thats what i will do again ahha

 

[maxwell]

the other thing i forgot is the oil pump setting. i briefy went over it in my manual and im not sure if it was calibrated when he sent it to me. how would i tell.