mount max gearing

[dean_jimmy96]

the thing seems to bog out in the deep snow that we had around here around edmonton this past winter and i thought it was the clutching, changed the weights and jetting for around here but it still seemed to bog
its a 700mm 2001 stock with only a can

so i am thinking its still geared for the mountains
what gearing would i use for around here?

 

[suzuki_ryder]

Sounds like a clutching issue. I haven't changed gearing in my mountain sleds around home. Try adding more pre-load to the secondary to hold its shift a bit. Your pulling 10,300-10,500?

I don't think the weights actually change, unless you have a set that are loaded up already?

 

[dean_jimmy96]

i am not sure what you mean at pulling at 10300-10500? how would i add more pre load bigger spring?
when i am in deep snow it boggs and i have to feather the throttle to make it out kinda like losing power and limp it out
i changed the weights my self and stuck in new rivets just in the primary, but did not touch the secondary

 

[suzuki_ryder]

10,300-10,500 rpm. I'm near positive that was the operating range. Call a dealership tomorrow and ask for the secondary specs for local riding. (it been a long time since I've worked on one, and I'm trying to remember without looking at one) On the helix there's holes with numbers near them,( these numbers tell you the degree of pre-load your putting on 3-3=60 degrees, 6-1=70 degrees, you get the picture) record where your spring is currently sitting (as a baseline), and with a pair of heavy work gloves and the parking brake on/ belt removed, remove the 2 of the 3 12mm nuts, and on the last nut, put a lot of pressure on the helix, and remove the nut, then slowly release it (it will come out with a counterclockwise twist with a lot of force, this is where the gloves are nice). Once it's off, note where the other end of the secondary spring is sitting on the sheave ( once again as a baseline) this is where you get the other number, so if its say 6-1, see what 6-2 does.

Also with local clutching there is a lot that's usually changed like in the primary, rollers can get changed to larger ones, additional rivets (as you know), And a different spring.
In the secondary the spring for local is usually different than the mountain spring, sometimes the helix gets changed, and then yamaha has the setting for spring preload. All of these things can add up to poor local performance. I was chasing the same issue for a while with a huge bog, thinking it couldn't be my clutching, but it was.


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[dean_jimmy96]

right on i will get on that and look at what she has, i have the shop book for the thing and i will read up on what the setting for local riding should be and compare to what it is
thanks a lot

 

[dean_jimmy96]

well everything was with in the stock spec for local riding, so i did i compression test and cly number 1 had a lower compression, pulled the top off and seen that piston was starting to burn a hole through, problem on power loss is solved! just need a new piston hahaha