Leveling kit questions

ZRrrr

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Been looking at leveling kits and I get told of some advantages, some disadvantges. Looking for opinions here.

I was taught the proper way to set up a trailer hitch, so when my trailer is snapped up the front wheel well is identical in height to the rear wheel well. Truck rides level, trailer is set properly. (I'm always amazed at how many I see NOT set up properly..scary).

Anyway, what advantage would there be then? I hear comments like "improved rear wheel performance in towing or hauling" or "better rear end wheel travel during towing or hauling"? If I am snapped up level it seems a leveling kit would not be necessary.

I have also heard that leveling the front can reduce gas mileage slightly due to increased wind resistance.
 

Longhorn

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Everybody does it for different reasons...for me, I do it to fit larger tires under my truck which I need for the environment that I work in...I dont like lift kits, and with the Dodge truck you can easily run 35" tires on stock wheels with only a levelling kit.

As far as towing, I tow likely more than some, and yes you can get into the situation that your rear end sags lower than your front, which is not the greatest. For me, airbags fix this issue.

If you want some suspension info, talk to HRT Offroad on here, Kevin is a suspension wizzard and has tons of experience. He can answer ALL your suspension questions.
 
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jaredszakacs

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ya definately talk to kevin hrt offroad he built one of my dmaxes for me and I used to sell suspension in cranbrook for him He is a suspension wizard the guy races in the baja 1000 so obviously knows his stuff but ya levelling kit and airbags is your best bet for towing trailers
 

shoppingcart111

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A leveling kit as fas as I know has nothing to do with towing, its made for more ground clearance, to run bigger wheels/tires, etc. On the new body style gms the wheel well opening is so narrow that you need a level kit or lift to clear anything bigger than stock, If you need something to help with towing then get airbags, but if you say your level with a trailer attached then you dont need a level kit.
 

Cyle

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Don't need a leveling kit on a dodge to clear 35's. And, unless you get new control arms, a leveling kit gives you pretty much ZERO extra clearance, because it pulls the axle that much further back.

Lift kits all the way. Far as i'm concerned to level properly you must put on new control arms, something for the track bar, shocks, and swar bar end links/drop brackets. And then you might as well buy a full lift, for a dodge anyways. Go big or go home :d

And, your trailer doesn't have to be 100% level, yea it is better but if it's off by a bit it's not a big deal. A lot also depends how loaded it is. I've pulled a 11k trailer a bit nose high so many times, it doesn't affect anything. Just a bit more weight on the truck and front axle, not a big deal if the trailer isn't close to fully loaded.
 

Longhorn

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Don't need a leveling kit on a dodge to clear 35's. And, unless you get new control arms, a leveling kit gives you pretty much ZERO extra clearance, because it pulls the axle that much further back.

Lift kits all the way. Far as i'm concerned to level properly you must put on new control arms, something for the track bar, shocks, and swar bar end links/drop brackets. And then you might as well buy a full lift, for a dodge anyways. Go big or go home :d

And, your trailer doesn't have to be 100% level, yea it is better but if it's off by a bit it's not a big deal. A lot also depends how loaded it is. I've pulled a 11k trailer a bit nose high so many times, it doesn't affect anything. Just a bit more weight on the truck and front axle, not a big deal if the trailer isn't close to fully loaded.

Yeah, sorry really dont agree with that at all, I have had 35's on my last 4 trucks, and while you can put them on, they will rub and hit without a levelling kit. A true levelling kit only adds 2-3 inches and drop brackets, end links are definitely not required.

Now in the same breath, I have only used a levelling kit as a short term solution until I could install a performance suspension...THEN I added springs, shocks, end links, drop brackets, new bump stops...

Not a fan of lift kits, never will be, for those that like them, they do 'look' cool but Im after the performance, not the look...
 

gotboost

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when u pull a trailer nose high u put more stress on the back axle and it will wear out the back tires way faster just saying:d
 

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I ran a leveling kit in my 2005 Ram 3500 and put airbags in the back and also put in a 2 inch spacerblock in the rear for some decent rake. I however had a welding skid in the back, I found with the airbags pumped up it was really topheavy and bouncy.the blocks took some bounce away as I didnt have to run as much pressure in the bags. too each thier own I guess. Leveling kit around 300 $$ lift kit 1000 $$ +++++
 

Cyle

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Yeah, sorry really dont agree with that at all, I have had 35's on my last 4 trucks, and while you can put them on, they will rub and hit without a levelling kit. A true levelling kit only adds 2-3 inches and drop brackets, end links are definitely not required.

Now in the same breath, I have only used a levelling kit as a short term solution until I could install a performance suspension...THEN I added springs, shocks, end links, drop brackets, new bump stops...

Not a fan of lift kits, never will be, for those that like them, they do 'look' cool but Im after the performance, not the look...

It all depends on the rims. I ran 35x12.50 on 18x8.5 rims with ZERO rubbing on stock suspension. 3" lift in front didn't change it at all, because the cab is the first thing that will rub besides for the control arms. It's ALL on the width and BS of rims. Something for the track bar is required if you want to do it right, your axle will be pulled towards the drivers side quite a bit. Swar bar isn't that big of deal on 3", but again it's another piece of the puzzle that you SHOULD if you plan to use the suspension.

Just because it's higher then 3" doesn't mean it's not performance. I have had a leveling kit, kore recon, 6" tuff country lift, now 8" mix matched. By far the best ride, handling, ANYTHING is the 8". The kore recon was a joke. Quality parts at any height will yield very good offroad and onroad performance. Granted it wasn't cheap I have almost 5k into the lift, but still.
 

Longhorn

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It all depends on the rims. I ran 35x12.50 on 18x8.5 rims with ZERO rubbing on stock suspension. 3" lift in front didn't change it at all, because the cab is the first thing that will rub besides for the control arms. It's ALL on the width and BS of rims. Something for the track bar is required if you want to do it right, your axle will be pulled towards the drivers side quite a bit. Swar bar isn't that big of deal on 3", but again it's another piece of the puzzle that you SHOULD if you plan to use the suspension.

Just because it's higher then 3" doesn't mean it's not performance. I have had a leveling kit, kore recon, 6" tuff country lift, now 8" mix matched. By far the best ride, handling, ANYTHING is the 8". The kore recon was a joke. Quality parts at any height will yield very good offroad and onroad performance. Granted it wasn't cheap I have almost 5k into the lift, but still.

18" wheels are not stock on either a 2500 or 3500 Dodge, so while you say you can run 35's on a STOCK truck, you have changed the wheels. When I say stock, I mean stock suspension AND wheels...

I hope you arent still running the 35's with an 8" lift, just sayin...
 

Cyle

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18" wheels are not stock on either a 2500 or 3500 Dodge, so while you say you can run 35's on a STOCK truck, you have changed the wheels. When I say stock, I mean stock suspension AND wheels...

I hope you arent still running the 35's with an 8" lift, just sayin...

The diameter makes no difference.....stock wheels would incur slight rubbing on the control arms due to the low offset of stock wheels. A leveling kit will not help that whatsoever.

Nope, rolling on 38x15.50's now :d
 

magnet

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leveling kits cause premature wear on all the front end components as well. also cause alot stiffer ride than if you went with a proper lift kit. imo. you have a fairly new truck and a nice riding unit. don't waste your money on a level kit do it right the first time. buy a lift if you wanna go higher.
 

ZRrrr

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....also the bearings.

This is a probelm I see all too often....people with trailers/hitches improperly set up. With most hitch systems, when set up properly, you should be level across all four wheels. That's why I could not understand the need for a leveling kit with towing and the comments I was told.

Looks like I'm good. Thanks for all the comments.
 

johndeereman346

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This is a probelm I see all too often....people with trailers/hitches improperly set up. With most hitch systems, when set up properly, you should be level across all four wheels. That's why I could not understand the need for a leveling kit with towing and the comments I was told.

Looks like I'm good. Thanks for all the comments.

If your happy with your ride height stick with what you have, i originally put a level on to fit 33s on my chevy, then pulling the trailer my headlights were way up in the sky so i threw on a set of bags last year. The trailer is 7000 lbs and i have to run a 5 inch drop just to get it to tow level and have the truck at stock ride rake with 60 lbs of air in the bags> if you do change your mind pm xsyourrides. He'll hook you up
 

Longhorn

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The diameter makes no difference.....stock wheels would incur slight rubbing on the control arms due to the low offset of stock wheels. A leveling kit will not help that whatsoever.

Nope, rolling on 38x15.50's now :d

I know the diameter wont make a difference, I was just suggesting that the 18" wheels perhaps were a different offset than the stockers...

Post a pic of the truck with the 38's...Im thinkin 37's next...
 

Cyle

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I was a little worried going so big with only 3:73's but it still pulls hard :d Will be pushing over 600hp by the end of summer anyways. Just waiting on the right leafs to get here and swap them out....stupid atlas sent me the wrong ones and it cali leans so badly. If your only running 3", your going to rub 37's. Maybe not that badly, but they won't clear very well, you will either rub your bumper, fender or control arms. I hit my long arms just before full lock, and not a ton of room to my fender and I pushed me axle a bit extra forward to help.

post-796-126628859399_thumb.jpg
 

Cyle

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Road armor with titan II guard. It's not bad for a deck that one I made has 9'6" ramp and 2' beavertail so it's not even steep, the deck sits at about 6'6" high in the box. But I am upgrading to aluminum deck again can't afford the extra weight of a steel deck with this lift and tires.

They might or might not depending on how wide, how wide of rims and which tires. Will be very close either way.
 
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