Longhairfreak
Active VIP Member
Why do people use anti stab wheels? Wouldnt it make more sense to install your skid properly?
Im stumped.
- Thread starter Longhairfreak
- Start date
koby
Active VIP Member
NO.........
It takes allot of time to properly install a skid.
It's way faster to put wheels in the front.
.....and if anybody starts refering to loose tracks, horsepower, or anything like, tell the fat fawkers to shut up.
BFF
A buddy of mine is installing some on his machine. He will go through sliders in two to three rides, right at the front...
He was told at a dealer that he may have a bent rail on the skid, could that be possible ? I know we have not ever had the skid or track off, and he bought the sled last year used.
Any other suggestions, to what the problem with it would be ?
sledderdoc
Super Senior Member
Hmmm most of the thread just disappeared!! Notice shiny top was reading. 
- Admin
- #6
Yep, Too much BS in it. Trying to get back on topic. Its a valid question, he deserves valid answers. For the record ShortHairedFreak Is not Overkill too. IP is from Vancouver.
sledderdoc
Super Senior Member
Like I said, I run my track loose, less friction (sorry koby - I'm not offended if you tell me to STFU ). Same reason that extrovert drivers allow you to run a looser track, which is why they were invented. Saying that a properly installed suspension will negate the need for anti-stabs is like saying that a properly installed suspension will not require the use of extrovert drivers which also allow you to run your track looser. The higher horsepower sleds were still ratcheting even with a super tight track and properly installed suspensions, so extroverts were invented to help alleviate this problem. Anti-stab wheel kits were designed with the same principle in mind.
The physics of a loose track can't be denied. After stabbing a track due to a broken rail tip, I now run anti-stabs. The big power sleds running loose tracks can wrap a track up on the rail tips like nothing, even with a properly installed skid. All u need is one tail stand at the top of a hill and the extra track slack can catch on the rail tips.
Anti-stabs have nothing to do with properly a installed suspension in most cases. They were primarily designed for drag racing. Go watch some slow-mo sled drag race vids. At the moment of inertia, when the pilot goes full throttle and the sled is stationary, the drivers pull the track tight and stretch it, the extra track slack bunches up in front of the rail tips. This can cause you to stab a track. Again, nothing to do with a properly installed suspension, just sheer HP and lots of traction will cause this.
If you run around with a tight track, you don't need anti-stabs IMO. That's just my $0.02.
). Same reason that extrovert drivers allow you to run a looser track, which is why they were invented. Saying that a properly installed suspension will negate the need for anti-stabs is like saying that a properly installed suspension will not require the use of extrovert drivers which also allow you to run your track looser. The higher horsepower sleds were still ratcheting even with a super tight track and properly installed suspensions, so extroverts were invented to help alleviate this problem. Anti-stab wheel kits were designed with the same principle in mind.The physics of a loose track can't be denied. After stabbing a track due to a broken rail tip, I now run anti-stabs. The big power sleds running loose tracks can wrap a track up on the rail tips like nothing, even with a properly installed skid. All u need is one tail stand at the top of a hill and the extra track slack can catch on the rail tips.
Anti-stabs have nothing to do with properly a installed suspension in most cases. They were primarily designed for drag racing. Go watch some slow-mo sled drag race vids. At the moment of inertia, when the pilot goes full throttle and the sled is stationary, the drivers pull the track tight and stretch it, the extra track slack bunches up in front of the rail tips. This can cause you to stab a track. Again, nothing to do with a properly installed suspension, just sheer HP and lots of traction will cause this.
If you run around with a tight track, you don't need anti-stabs IMO. That's just my $0.02.
Last edited:
intmid8or!
Problem Child
in before the lock
tukernater
Active VIP Member
modman i do alot of pavement drag racing 1/8 mile,we find there is a fine line between to tight and to loose,on ashfault the tracks has to be tighter than i would like to see,makes me wounder if alot of people run them way to loose,maybe two totaly diffrent worlds but im sure the big turbos track speed are not much off of what we run down the track@110mph we see alot of looping on the pavement tighter seem to be better,why in the snow do we need to have it hanging off the rail 2 to 2.5 inches ,HELP i know it a silly question but i need to justify why I always run my track that loose, it must loop even on the snow?
lionel! there may be a new alter on bcr. better go run a ip addy search.
intmid8or!
Problem Child
dont know how
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- #13
MOMMA
Active VIP Member
I don't know a lot of the asphalt stuff, but you run way more wheels on the asphalt than on the snow. I have no wheels on my skid except the 2 rear ones so I run my track loose to avoid a lot of friction on the sliders. I'm guessing there isn't a lot of slider contact on an asphalt sled because there are so many wheels on the skid. Just with all your wheels, you probably have less friction on a tight asphalt track than I do on my loose snow track. I know they loop on the snow, and just like on pavement, there is a line from too loose and too tight, maybe the margin just might be a little bigger. ??
The other reason I suspect maybe is that in a snow application, the suspension cycles up and down and the track tension changes as the suspension moves. In a drag application there is no suspension movement (or very little) since they are tied down so the track tension will not change very much once it is set (because the suspension does not cycle up and down on a drag sled). Apart from that I don't really know.
It doesn't have anything to do with track speed IMO, it has to do with how much track wraps up on the front of the rails. If you break a plastic rail tip like I did, having a perfect suspension set up doesn't matter, you can still spear your track because the rail tip is like an arrow (at least on Arctic Cats). If you break a limiter strap you can spear a track also. The anti-stab wheels will give me a little bit of peace of mind in case it happens again. Lots of guys stab tracks because of these reasons, not because their suspension is installed poorly. I guess that was my point.
tukernater
Active VIP Member
ya thanks ,alot of things i over looked ashfault has no slider and 14 wheels and 1 inch max travel and my suspension moves forward to apply more presurre on the front of the rail if it starts to spin? thanks for the help.
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
After seeing my buddies M7 stab a track all I can say is...anti stab wheels are way cheaper than a new track. Well, that and....damn he looked funny flying over his bars! :d
j.c.higgins
Active VIP Member
Six factors as I see it:
When we all had introverts we ran the tracks a little tighter. The rails tips could move up and down beside the drivers so they were often longer than they are now.
There is a sweet spot between having your track too tight and so loose that it doesn't hold its shape or ratchet. Many people with King Cats have stabbed a track but six years on I have never had a problem. My CE track is quite loose but I run the limiters tight.
- The extrovert driver lugs line up with the rails which necessitates some clearance so the tips don't hit through suspension travel.
- They can't curl the front of the rail upward too much or it will push on the track at the top when the suspension is fully collapsed at the front only.
- 3" pitch tracks have a much larger window for the rail tip to pop into.
- Loose tracks wad up behind the drivers when being worked hard and we have more power these days.
- We run our tracks loose because a loose track turns easier reducing parasitic drag.
- Some people like to wheelie or choose to sacrifice climbing performance for a little better flat powder maneuverability and run their limiters on the loose side.
When we all had introverts we ran the tracks a little tighter. The rails tips could move up and down beside the drivers so they were often longer than they are now.
There is a sweet spot between having your track too tight and so loose that it doesn't hold its shape or ratchet. Many people with King Cats have stabbed a track but six years on I have never had a problem. My CE track is quite loose but I run the limiters tight.
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