Clutching help

[2012ProRMK]

I am looking to add a new primary spring to my Pro. I am trying to decide between pink/blue or pink/green. What is the difference? I understand it will raise my RPM's, but thats about it. Will i need to re-weight? I run two different altitudes so i already need to switch weights. I will be running an HPS can also if that matters.

Also, whats the best way to 'paint' certain parts of my sled? (e.g. spindles, riser, rails, etc.)

Thanks.

 

[CO2.0]

I would put in a Speedwerx H5 125/340 alloy spring before an SLP blue/pink spring. Many guys with '12's have been breaking stock springs and SLP springs like crazy. I have never broken or sacked out a Speederx H5 alloy spring in thousand of miles on Cat's and Poo's. Made of much higher tensile strength material over the SLP springs. I find the SW springs to not sit as fat in the spring cup as the SLP springs too. I also run a Thunderproducts metal glide washer on each side of the spring. Helps with spring bind and does not allow the spring end to gouge into the soft aluminum on the clutch.

You probably will not need to reclutch for either a SW or SLP spring. I have found engagement close to the same as stock, will a little better top end on either spring. SLP starts to sack out after 1000 miles or so.

 

[Chrisco]

SLP blue pink works good ran all 3 pros 1000 miles no props, and sold 30 with no call about any breaking.

 

[2012ProRMK]

Ok, cool. So i won't need to re-weight? And whats the difference between the blue/pink and green/pink springs? Thanks.

 

[Chrisco]

Blue-pink 140-340 green/pink-160-340 The green pink will be a little rammy when the clutch engauges (160) both are the same in the end you will not need to re weight.

 

[CO2.0]

Hmm, totally different story on Snowest about the SLP springs in the 2012 Pro RMK's...

I personally know many who have broke them or had them sack out over time. I've had many SLP springs sack out on me personally, but never an H5 spring. Maybe it's a different story between where you ride in Alberta and where we ride at 12000ft. Our clutches are hot enough to fry an egg here sometimes with how we ride. No matter what machine we are on, even with spot on clutching. (I'm a mechanic as well). You do sell SLP springs though, so I will tend to think you may be a little bias toward them.

Speedwerx H5 springs have 30,000 to 40,000 PSI higher tensile strength than standard chrome silicon wire springs (ie SLP springs).
There is a 35% weight savings over chrome silicon wire springs.

 

[Chrisco]

Hmm, totally different story on Snowest about the SLP springs in the 2012 Pro RMK's...

I personally know many who have broke them or had them sack out over time. I've had many SLP springs sack out on me personally, but never an H5 spring. Maybe it's a different story between where you ride in Alberta and where we ride at 12000ft. Our clutches are hot enough to fry an egg here sometimes with how we ride. No matter what machine we are on, even with spot on clutching. (I'm a mechanic as well). You do sell SLP springs though, so I will tend to think you may be a little bias toward them.


Bias thats funny....... the 3 bucks I might make off a 27.00 spring lol. They work for us at 6000 to 9000 with no probs. It dont matter what spring someone wants I can get any spring. I am also a speedwerx dealer.

Speedwerx H5 springs have 30,000 to 40,000 PSI higher tensile strength than standard chrome silicon wire springs (ie SLP springs).
There is a 35% weight savings over chrome silicon wire springs.

Bias thats funny....... the 3 bucks I might make off a 27.00 spring lol. They work for us at 6000 to 9000 with no probs. It dont matter what spring someone wants I can get any spring. I am also a speedwerx dealer.

 

[polarisdragon800]

When a spring begins to sack out, will rpms increased because it takes less to pull the primary together?

 

[CO2.0]

Bias thats funny....... the 3 bucks I might make off a 27.00 spring lol. They work for us at 6000 to 9000 with no probs. It dont matter what spring someone wants I can get any spring. I am also a speedwerx dealer.

I'm glad they work for you. I've been using SLP springs since 2004 (still have a pile of them in my cabinet), and they worked much better than any stock Cat or Poo spring ever has. I found a better spring in the H5 and am posting info about it since I took the time and thousands of miles to compare the performance and performance lost between Alloy and Chrome Silicon springs.

OP, when a spring sacks out you lose RPM's.

 

[Tyson.H]

Hmm, totally different story on Snowest about the SLP springs in the 2012 Pro RMK's...

I personally know many who have broke them or had them sack out over time. I've had many SLP springs sack out on me personally, but never an H5 spring. Maybe it's a different story between where you ride in Alberta and where we ride at 12000ft. Our clutches are hot enough to fry an egg here sometimes with how we ride. No matter what machine we are on, even with spot on clutching. (I'm a mechanic as well). You do sell SLP springs though, so I will tend to think you may be a little bias toward them.

Speedwerx H5 springs have 30,000 to 40,000 PSI higher tensile strength than standard chrome silicon wire springs (ie SLP springs).
There is a 35% weight savings over chrome silicon wire springs.

Maybe you should add some venting on the clutch side if your clutches are hot enough to fry an egg on or just do your sled a favor and give it a break when it gets that hot. I run the slp spring with 1000 miles last year no problem and even with a 174 3" on nitrous i dont think i ever got my clutches hot enough to cook on.

 

[CO2.0]

Maybe you should add some venting on the clutch side if your clutches are hot enough to fry an egg on or just do your sled a favor and give it a break when it gets that hot. I run the slp spring with 1000 miles last year no problem and even with a 174 3" on nitrous i dont think i ever got my clutches hot enough to cook on.

When the clutches were that hot we were on our Cat's. Not saying I run them like that constantly. Just used them as an example since the 2010 M8 broke/sacked out springs too, and their clutches run much hotter. I have all the venting in the world on that sled. Every time I stop I open the side panels to let the clutches cool. I do the best I can to keep the sled cool. But when you are running pinned out for minutes straight (with all of 100hp) to get into an area at 12000ft in early season CO pow, it can be difficult sometimes to keep any sled cool. I do though like having a P85 again. Much more efficient and run a lot cooler than any Cat or Ski doo clutch.

 

[CO2.0]

If the SLP spring works for you guys then more power to you, but there are also other options available that might just be better if you take the time and effort to see for yourself. Alloy is stronger and keeps it's spring longer than a Chrome Silicon spring. I do personally know of many riding buddies in Colorado that have broke SLP blue/pink springs on the '12 pro rmk. It is happening around here, and it is an issue with many members on snowest. I have not broken a spring on my Pro RMK yet (running a 1500 mi used H5 spring), but it's also fairly new still with 450 miles on it since I got it in Feb.

I feel spring bind is what are breaking these springs on these guys here in CO. The spring binds in the cup aluminum and the spring catches on the spider nut and breaks. I do not see any guys with '11 pro's around here with the same problem of springs breaking. I deburred the fairly sharp edges on my spider nut, used metal glide washers on each side of the spring cup to try and eliminate spring bind, and used the H5 spring since it has a thinner wire than the slp and stock springs. I advised all the other guys on SW to try this as well because I'd like to see if it works for them. Many of them are taking extra springs into the back country with them. That sucks...

 

[HotShotHarry]

I have broken 2 polaris springs on my 11 PRO and am now running SLP's with the glide washers and no problems........ -YET!

 

[E-Zmoke]

1600 miles last year on my SLP blue pink spring purchased from parkland and 0 issues. One of the first things I will be doing to my 13' will be installing another.

 

[kyle019]

Sorry to thread jack, but is the pro rmk and assault clutching set up the same or is the assault set up different? I'd like to put new clutch springs in as I only seem to pull 7900 rpm with 62's in valemount with my assault. Rode my buddies pro rmk and his clutching feels like it gets the power to the ground better. That's why I ask if the clutch systems between the 2 have different springs or is this probably because of the heavier assault track?

 

[BLEIB]

If the SLP spring works for you guys then more power to you, but there are also other options available that might just be better if you take the time and effort to see for yourself. Alloy is stronger and keeps it's spring longer than a Chrome Silicon spring. I do personally know of many riding buddies in Colorado that have broke SLP blue/pink springs on the '12 pro rmk. It is happening around here, and it is an issue with many members on snowest. I have not broken a spring on my Pro RMK yet (running a 1500 mi used H5 spring), but it's also fairly new still with 450 miles on it since I got it in Feb.

I feel spring bind is what are breaking these springs on these guys here in CO. The spring binds in the cup aluminum and the spring catches on the spider nut and breaks. I do not see any guys with '11 pro's around here with the same problem of springs breaking. I deburred the fairly sharp edges on my spider nut, used metal glide washers on each side of the spring cup to try and eliminate spring bind, and used the H5 spring since it has a thinner wire than the slp and stock springs. I advised all the other guys on SW to try this as well because I'd like to see if it works for them. Many of them are taking extra springs into the back country with them. That sucks...

WOW... this is exactly what is happening with my set-up too. I run the SLP Blue/Pink spring and just took everything a part for inspection and cleaning. My spring wore against the jam nut, sheering off one of the edges and you can see on the inside of the spring where it rubbed and took of the paint. When I look closely at the spring it looks slightly bent now too. I can definitely see how these springs can break when that happens. I only have about 550 miles on the spring. Ordered up a couple of Speedwerx springs to try something different. Ordered the 140/335 and the 120/340. Friggin hard to find in Canada would like to find a dealer here vs US if possible. If anyone knows of any please let me know. THX!

 

[2012ProRMK]

So if i ran that blue/pink in there, would it be worth while to add MTX weights? Would i be able to order one set then just add weight to the rives for when i go west? If so what weight should i get (1500 ft) and how much should i run In BC? And would a secondary spring do me any good?
Thanks alot guys.

 

[2012ProRMK]

Anyone?

 

[andus]

I have the SLP blue/pink spring as well but because I'm installing an HPS can my RPM's will probably increase above the optimal 8050-8100 range. I ride at 0-3000 ft. and I've been told to run 71g MTX weights with a 2g rivet in the inner hole to bring the RPM's down. If you're going to be riding at different elevations then having weights that you can adjust might be a good idea. SLP sells MTX weights with 3 sets of rivets (1, 2, and 3g). I don't change elevations much when I ride so I'm not sure which weights you would need. If you email SLP at slptech@slp.cc one of their techs will answer all your questions. Hope this helps.

 

[andus]

Friggin hard to find in Canada would like to find a dealer here vs US if possible. If anyone knows of any please let me know. THX!

If you live in western Canada Echo Cycle in Edmonton is a Speedwerx distributor. If you're out east there's a place in Exeter, Ontario called Country Corners Rent-All that sells Speedwerx products.