Brake/tail light wires

macronut

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Does it make a difference? The part number is 0609-863.

Here is a tid bit from my manual regarding the 1000cc series:

Electrical
Specifications
(1000 cc Models)
􀂄NOTE: The ignition system is a Normally Open Ignition (NOI).
* Main harness plugged in
Peak Voltage Tests were made at room temperature with the MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041), Fluke Model 73 Multimeter
(p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale, and the Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). Also, the main
harness connectors must be unplugged (except on primary coil/CCU tests), the spark plugs removed and grounded,
and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
􀂄NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
Description Resistance Test
Test Value + Test Connections -
Ignition Coil
Primary
Secondary
0.24-0.36 ohm
5040-7560 ohms
black/white
high tension wire
white/blue
high tension wire
Charge Coil (1) 8.8-13.2 ohms black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 8.8-13.2 ohms brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 0.08-0.12 ohms yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 148-222 ohms blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 142-222 ohms green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 15.2-22.8 ohms blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 1.52-2.28 ohms orange orange
Spark-Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Description Test Value + Test Connections -
Chassis Control Unit* 10-15 DC Volts red/blue (low power)
red/black (high power)
brown (low power)
black (high power)
Servomotor 12 DC Volts red/black (counterclockwise)
black/red (clockwise)
black/red (counterclockwise)
red/black (clockwise)
Low Oil-Light Sending Unit Less than 1 ohm (float end down) terminal terminal
Coolant Temperature Sensor Open
(coolant temperature lower than 190°F)
terminal ground
Up to 20 ohms
(coolant temperature higher than 230°F)
terminal ground
Coolant Temperature Warning Light Less than 10 ohms terminal terminal
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminal terminal
Description Peak Voltage Test + Test Connections -
MAG Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 125-137V orange/red orange/black
PTO Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 126-139V white/red white/black
Charge Coil (1) 13.6-14.8 black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 13.5-14.6 brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 5.4-5.8V yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 4.3V blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 4.4V green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 12V blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 12.3V orange orange
Lighting Coil 14.8-22.2V (@ 2000 RPM) yellow brown
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially
those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter
rope or after the engine has been started.


Not sure if this will help you or not. let me know if you require more and I'll do some digging.
 

ferniesnow

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Here is a tid bit from my manual regarding the 1000cc series:

Electrical
Specifications
(1000 cc Models)
􀂄NOTE: The ignition system is a Normally Open Ignition (NOI).
* Main harness plugged in
Peak Voltage Tests were made at room temperature with the MaxiClips (p/n 0744-041), Fluke Model 73 Multimeter
(p/n 0644-191) set to the DC Volt scale, and the Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). Also, the main
harness connectors must be unplugged (except on primary coil/CCU tests), the spark plugs removed and grounded,
and by pulling the recoil starter rope briskly.
􀂄NOTE: Lighting coil output is unregulated voltage.
Description Resistance Test
Test Value + Test Connections -
Ignition Coil
Primary
Secondary
0.24-0.36 ohm
5040-7560 ohms
black/white
high tension wire
white/blue
high tension wire
Charge Coil (1) 8.8-13.2 ohms black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 8.8-13.2 ohms brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 0.08-0.12 ohms yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 148-222 ohms blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 142-222 ohms green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 15.2-22.8 ohms blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 1.52-2.28 ohms orange orange
Spark-Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms cap end cap end
Description Test Value + Test Connections -
Chassis Control Unit* 10-15 DC Volts red/blue (low power)
red/black (high power)
brown (low power)
black (high power)
Servomotor 12 DC Volts red/black (counterclockwise)
black/red (clockwise)
black/red (counterclockwise)
red/black (clockwise)
Low Oil-Light Sending Unit Less than 1 ohm (float end down) terminal terminal
Coolant Temperature Sensor Open
(coolant temperature lower than 190°F)
terminal ground
Up to 20 ohms
(coolant temperature higher than 230°F)
terminal ground
Coolant Temperature Warning Light Less than 10 ohms terminal terminal
Ignition Switch Less than 1 ohm (key in OFF position) terminal terminal
Description Peak Voltage Test + Test Connections -
MAG Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 125-137V orange/red orange/black
PTO Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 126-139V white/red white/black

Charge Coil (1) 13.6-14.8 black/red green/red
Charge Coil (2) 13.5-14.6 brown/white green/red
Lighting Coil 5.4-5.8V yellow yellow
Ignition Timing Sensor (1) 4.3V blue/white brown/green
Ignition Timing Sensor (2) 4.4V green/white brown/green
Injection Coil 12V blue/white blue/white
Fuel Pump Coil 12.3V orange orange
Lighting Coil 14.8-22.2V (@ 2000 RPM) yellow brown
! WARNING
Most voltages generated by the ignition system are sufficient to interrupt pacemakers! All technicians, especially
those using pacemakers, must avoid contact with all electrical connections when pulling the recoil starter
rope or after the engine has been started.


Not sure if this will help you or not. let me know if you require more and I'll do some digging.

Hey man, thanks for everything. The light is from the M-series. It is the same part number for all of them (first bit of info I found on a parts fiche).

From above, I'm assuming that the black will be ground (MAG Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 125-137V orange/red orange/black
PTO Primary Coil (Harness Side)* 126-139V white/red white/black) because black is the only common wire with these two. Maybe I'm wrong but I'll see later today.

And the yellow will be the tail light (all the lighting above talks about yellow wires). I'm assuming again that the "lighting" as described above would be all lighting like as when the sled is started.

This is a positive start and I'll see what else develops. Once again, thanks a bunch, fs
 
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macronut

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My assumptions didn't work....anybody else know about the wiring colors on the M-series tail/brake light; blue, black and yellow.

What are the Sled's wiring colors:


What are the Lights wiring colors:




Should be able to meter the hot and neutral to determine both
 

macronut

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The sled has red (tail light), black (brake light), and white (ground). I'm not much into electricity as you can tell. Thanks, again

Use a brake/tail light from a car with a couple soldered wires to test against your sled wire colors, make sure to use a 12volt bulb... Remember God Hates a Coward:beer:
 

ferniesnow

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Use a brake/tail light from a car with a couple soldered wires to test against your sled wire colors, make sure to use a 12volt bulb... Remember God Hates a Coward:beer:

I know what wires do what on the doo. I am a coward hooking up the LED because I'm nervous about blowing it up or shorting it. Don't want to make a mistake on that end. If you know what I mean...
 

macronut

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I know what wires do what on the doo. I am a coward hooking up the LED because I'm nervous about blowing it up or shorting it. Don't want to make a mistake on that end. If you know what I mean...

Understood lol if you use a vehicle bulb to test it should give you the results you require, one of the wires will light up the brake, one of the wires will light up the tail.... Better to test on a bulb than the LED which is more $$$$ i believe

This was posted on Snow West:
blue to red
yel to wht
brown to blk

****************

black to brown yellow to yellow and blue to red


I can't be held responsible for these quotes :)
 

ferniesnow

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Understood lol if you use a vehicle bulb to test it should give you the results you require, one of the wires will light up the brake, one of the wires will light up the tail.... Better to test on a bulb than the LED which is more $$$$ i believe

This was posted on Snow West:
blue to red
yel to wht
brown to blk

****************

black to brown yellow to yellow and blue to red


I can't be held responsible for these quotes :)

Oh, I won't hold you responsible but I might laugh a little at myself! I don't have a brown wire anywhere and if it was black to black I'd be okay. I'll go try a little bulb tester and see what I get. Thanks, again
 

macronut

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Oh, I won't hold you responsible but I might laugh a little at myself! I don't have a brown wire anywhere and if it was black to black I'd be okay. I'll go try a little bulb tester and see what I get. Thanks, again

Lol Keep me posted. I got such a kick outta this Cat light on a Doo!!!!
 

ferniesnow

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Lol Keep me posted. I got such a kick outta this Cat light on a Doo!!!!

Here's what I know: the yellow on the Cat is ground! So yellow to white.
And with black to black, blue (from the Cat) to red (from the Doo), I get a light on the back!

Here's what I don't know; whether it is a tail light or a brake light!
The tail/brake light somes on when I start the sled. It seems pretty bright but there is no change when I pull the brake handle.

I have no light when I switch the wires black (AC) to red (doo) and blue (AC) to black (doo).

Is it possible that there is something in the LED that maybe I need to connect all of the wires together except the grounds?



The above is not correct! Please see the correct wiring in the Snowmobile Discussion thread.
 
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mur190

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haha no worries man i just went through this wiring in a LED light on my brother inlaws 08 M8 that we put the 09 tunnel update on.
 
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