2015 M8000 running like a dog

Snort

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A friend of mine has a 2015 M8000 154 2.6” track

He has a Bikeman y pipe and pipe, a fix clutch kit and a controller with D&D can.

It doesn’t seem to matter how the clutching is set up, it only wants to pull about 7000 RPM at 6000 feet.

One suggestion is a weak fuel pump but that is a costly try if it doesn’t work.

Any suggestions?
 

tmo1620

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First of all what is a fix clutch kit.....? there was nothing wrong with the clutches or clutching on the 2015 m8000's, and whats he spinning weight wise? Second have a look at reeds, could be starting to flake, shouldnt be the issue but anytime the reeds failed for me shortly before I started losing a bit of top end RPM. Pull the pump and the fuel pickups out of the tank and inspect, make sure they never got some sediment or something in there from poor fuel. Third get rid of that bikeman pipe they were junk. Only pipes I had ever had luck with was the Speedwerx adjustable pipes or SLP, tried BMP, D&D and both didnt work good at all. Take the pipe off and can, put back to stock and unplug the controller. D&D cans are also crap quality, had issues coming apart inside, poor welds etc.. Put exhaust back to stock with no controller and try it then....... willing to bet she'll work better without that random collection of mess mods done to it.

A friend of mine has a 2015 M8000 154 2.6” track

He has a Bikeman y pipe and pipe, a fix clutch kit and a controller with D&D can.

It doesn’t seem to matter how the clutching is set up, it only wants to pull about 7000 RPM at 6000 feet.

One suggestion is a weak fuel pump but that is a costly try if it doesn’t work.

Any suggestions?
 
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rev144

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I agree. Heck the feeds. I have a 2012 m8. And for a couple days before checking the reeds that’s what it was doing. Travis in valemount suggested I check the feeds and he was right both side the feeds were on their way out. Changed them right there and a world of difference. Been running get since.
 

tmo1620

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I agree. Heck the feeds. I have a 2012 m8. And for a couple days before checking the reeds that’s what it was doing. Travis in valemount suggested I check the feeds and he was right both side the feeds were on their way out. Changed them right there and a world of difference. Been running get since.
Lol ive had travis replace a couple sets of reeds, he always pulls through for a guy
 

Snort

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Ok,

reeds have already been replaced. He had wanted a stiffer secondary spring but apparently was sold a softer one. Changed that back and it’s a bit better. Tried switching the can to a Thing can with no change. Removed the controller and seems to keep more consistent rpm but still low. Installed the stock pipe with D&D can and dropped maybe 20 RPM from the Bikeman pipe. He installed adjustable weights but now have it set down to what should be stock.

If we tee a pressure gauge into the fuel line to test if it is putting out the correct pressure, what should it be?
 

mountianguy

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Its most likely not the fuel pump. Check for the right belt and try a new one. Then it is most likely the clutching. You are on the right track with the stock pipe and stock clutching.
 

neilsleder

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What controller on it? I have yet to see a sled run good with a controller on it. I would take everything off and return to stock to see if it runs good.
 

tmo1620

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What controller on it? I have yet to see a sled run good with a controller on it. I would take everything off and return to stock to see if it runs good.
Depends on who is doing your mapping or how good you are at mapping, i had a 2014 hcr with full speedwerx exhaust, clutching, different gearing and pc5 with custom tunes for low and high put together by a few racers and wow, that thing was an absolute beast, never hiccuped, burped, farted, ran super clean and was a huge increase in power, it absolutely walked on any 850 i rode with, wasnt close at all, so it is possible but ya for the most part running one with cookie cutter maps is a waste of money and time
 

E-Zmoke

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Does he have the bikeman adjustable magnetic weights? If so remove them put back to stock weights or put a dalton adjustable weight back in. The bikeman weights were complete junk and would get flat spots on the back of the profile this creating the dreaded 7000rpm peak they had a huge run of there adjustable weights that didn’t get heat treated and they would make it 500miles or so then wouldn’t allow the clutch to hit target rpm cause they had huge flat spots in the back of the profile. Also did you check the exhaust valve cables for within spec?
 

Fatdaddy

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Does he have the bikeman adjustable magnetic weights? If so remove them put back to stock weights or put a dalton adjustable weight back in. The bikeman weights were complete junk and would get flat spots on the back of the profile this creating the dreaded 7000rpm peak they had a huge run of there adjustable weights that didn’t get heat treated and they would make it 500miles or so then wouldn’t allow the clutch to hit target rpm cause they had huge flat spots in the back of the profile. Also did you check the exhaust valve cables for within spec?
Yes check weights for flat spots and bushings and properly adjusted power valve cables
 

Snort

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Power commander is a Bikeman I believe. Doesn’t seem to make a difference if it’s in or out.

Power valve cables have been checked.

He does have the Bikeman magnetic weights but the low RPM issue has been there ever since they were installed so they shouldn’t have been screwed already. Bikeman has told me that he should add weight so that the pipe will get hotter and make more power. That seems suspect to me.
 
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