2012 Polaris Pro RMK 155 clutching

Stickyfingers

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I recently picked up a 2012 pro rmk 800 155 with under 100km on it. Since I purchased it in july I obviously have not rode it but the old man I purchased from had left it completely stock. I went and ordered a can for it and am wondering on clutching. What I am wondering is he said the clutching had not been set up from the dealer when he bought it? I am new to the pro chassis and had quick clickers on my rev but can someone inform me if its simple to play with the clutching like the clicker setup? or should I get a clutch kit? I am in the works of getting an owners manual for the sled but still dont know S.F.A. about this machine and i doubt if the manual will help me. any info towards my clutching or about what other mods work well with the pro chassis or if they even need anything it would be appreciated. Also if anyone knows a good polaris shop to get my sled setup at let me know thanks.
 

TylerG

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Send a message to "Rhodsie" on here, he manages the Polaris Dealer in Medicine Hat and has done lots of playing with clutching on his own pro's.
 

Rhodesie

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I recently picked up a 2012 pro rmk 800 155 with under 100km on it. Since I purchased it in july I obviously have not rode it but the old man I purchased from had left it completely stock. I went and ordered a can for it and am wondering on clutching. What I am wondering is he said the clutching had not been set up from the dealer when he bought it? I am new to the pro chassis and had quick clickers on my rev but can someone inform me if its simple to play with the clutching like the clicker setup? or should I get a clutch kit? I am in the works of getting an owners manual for the sled but still dont know S.F.A. about this machine and i doubt if the manual will help me. any info towards my clutching or about what other mods work well with the pro chassis or if they even need anything it would be appreciated. Also if anyone knows a good polaris shop to get my sled setup at let me know thanks.
don't get all in a dither. the pro's work well out of the box. take it and ride it and then make subtle changes. don't go change a bunch on it when you have not rode it. if you think it's soft put a round in the rear spring. small changes until you like what you have done. carry an extra primary spring because they had quite few break. if your hitting around 8400 on a good pull you are going to want to weight up a couple grams. 8100 is what i like. others will say different. you have to change weights on the pro, no clickers. hope this helps.
 

theunit1

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What about the Dalton adjustable kit heard they rock then you dont have to change weights?
 

BLEIB

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I'm using SLP MTX weights. Glad I went with these as I had some tweaking to do when setting up for my optimum RPM. After a good breakin my RPM kept climbing. Having the rivets in different weights saved me a lot of hassle. A buddy of mine uses Daltons and swears by them also. Bottom line... Get to know how to service your clutches. Do a search on YouTube for some decent vids. Probably save you some decent $ too!

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2
 

Staple_STI

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Is this the same RPM for the 2013 pro rmk, should be hitting around 8100? I will be going between mountain riding in AB/BC >1000m to prairies in Sask <<1000m. What clutching do you recommend for each of these locations
 

BLEIB

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Here's the clutching chart for the 2013 Pro RMK. I'd say optimum RPM... 8200, but anything between 8100-8250 would be a good target.

2013 clutching chart.jpg
 
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