2011 GMC 2500 Leveling kits ???

Hefe04

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I am looking to put a leveling kit( 2 inch) in my 2011 GMC 2500, from what I have found so far the options are a Ready Lift leveling kit where the torsion bar keys are swapped out and shock spacers put in with the blocks in the back. Also another one where the control arms are swapped out and new shocks put in, but this is about twice the price. I have been told by one person that if you do the torsion bar method then the control arm can bottom out easily on the stopper. Does anyone have any first hand info on leveling out their 2011-2012 2500/3500 GMC/Chev, how it is working, what kit and any issues. Also size of tires used after and rim offset? I am wanting a rim with zero offset as I dont want to put fender flares on. Thanks
 

GRD

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A couple of guys are the site here that know a ton about what you need to do, in order to maintain the ride and quality of the front end. There may also be a thread, I will add the link if I can find it.

HRT Offroad and jaredszkacs, both southern guys but have a ton of knowledge.

https://www.snowandmud.com/forum/f77/leveling-kits-63154.html

I am looking to put a leveling kit( 2 inch) in my 2011 GMC 2500, from what I have found so far the options are a Ready Lift leveling kit where the torsion bar keys are swapped out and shock spacers put in with the blocks in the back. Also another one where the control arms are swapped out and new shocks put in, but this is about twice the price. I have been told by one person that if you do the torsion bar method then the control arm can bottom out easily on the stopper. Does anyone have any first hand info on leveling out their 2011-2012 2500/3500 GMC/Chev, how it is working, what kit and any issues. Also size of tires used after and rim offset? I am wanting a rim with zero offset as I dont want to put fender flares on. Thanks
 
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jaredszakacs

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Thank you GRD! With the levelling kits there are virtually 3 ways of doing it! #1 dont buy keys or spacers just get a torsion bar unloading tool and start turning up the torsion keys with this method you really need to keep track of measurement as it is real easy to have 1 side higher than the other! #2 buy a kit with the torsion keys and shock extenders and install. #3 buy a levelling kit with the upper control arms (UCA's) and the levelling keys this method will gain you extra suspension travel making the ride a fair bit smoother than just the torsion key and shock extender route! Yo can also buy just the levelling kit and extenders and run some new shocks that will also make the ride a bit smoother but the ultimate is with the control arms! you just gotta make sure that you get a wheel alignment after you do a levelling kit! If you need any prices or more info feel free to message me or give me a call 403-627-2048
 

Fatdaddy

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If you use your truck off highway I would stay clear of the leveling kit. Spend your money on a 4" lift instead. I had the leveling kit on my 07 2500 GMC & like clock work replaced front end parts every break up. Every time it was being done the mechanics told me never to get the leveling kit for the amount of gravel roads that I drive. Just my experience with the leveling kit.
 

Hefe04

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No the truck is 95% highway use. I think from the info I got here I will be switching out the keys and possibly putting in cognito upper control arms. As for the shocks up in the air still with replacing shocks or just use the shock spacers. Thank All
 
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KawisakiRider

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I got the keys/blocks with the shock spacers and man was my ride rough, I took out the spacers and bought some Bilstein 5100's 2" longer than stock, made a big difference.
As for the front end going out every year, I've had the lvl kit on since 20K and just did my tie rods @ 145K and I drive a mix of hi-way and oilfield roads.
 

Hefe04

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Did you change out the upper control arms?

I got the keys/blocks with the shock spacers and man was my ride rough, I took out the spacers and bought some Bilstein 5100's 2" longer than stock, made a big difference.
As for the front end going out every year, I've had the lvl kit on since 20K and just did my tie rods @ 145K and I drive a mix of hi-way and oilfield roads.
 

jaredszakacs

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the upper control arm's are gonna make big differences in the ride quality but changing the shocks out as well will make the ultimate package for the levelling kits! you can aslo do a skyjacker 3" lift kit wich is about $1800 plus install so around 22-2400 all said and done. The levelling kit if done properly will not wreak havoc on your front end parts. chevy is famous for normal wear and tear on pitman/idler arms, the bracing on these, tierods,ball joints its a known fact with chevy. so replacing those parts is just a normal on most chevy's! ride will be a bit firmer than stock but with control arms and new shocks you wont even notice the turned up keys! Also a lot of people get rough rides because of over inflated tires wich causes major issues! Ask Milton on here about his truck i did a levelling kit on it called me back said it was rough as hell making banging noises. he told me he checked his tires and they were close to 80 psi YIKES!!!! he then lowered them substantially and the ride was smooth again no banging noises!
 

KawisakiRider

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the upper control arm's are gonna make big differences in the ride quality but changing the shocks out as well will make the ultimate package for the levelling kits! you can aslo do a skyjacker 3" lift kit wich is about $1800 plus install so around 22-2400 all said and done. The levelling kit if done properly will not wreak havoc on your front end parts. chevy is famous for normal wear and tear on pitman/idler arms, the bracing on these, tierods,ball joints its a known fact with chevy. so replacing those parts is just a normal on most chevy's! ride will be a bit firmer than stock but with control arms and new shocks you wont even notice the turned up keys! Also a lot of people get rough rides because of over inflated tires wich causes major issues! Ask Milton on here about his truck i did a levelling kit on it called me back said it was rough as hell making banging noises. he told me he checked his tires and they were close to 80 psi YIKES!!!! he then lowered them substantially and the ride was smooth again no banging noises!

I think that was part of my problem also ride wise, mine where at 70psi and I lowered them to 55psi in the front and 50psi in the rear, helped alot. I still jack them when towing but only to 65psi seems to be working so far, lol.
 

jaredszakacs

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yeah I run my toyo's at about 45-50 for myself as well and my other tires were close to 65 when I put the sleds and deck on. it's quite amazing how a over inflated or under inflated tire will cause so many issues!
 
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