Hey guys, my cousin just bought this slightly abused M1000.It had about 2000 miles on it so he had the top end replaced right away. And a good thing too cause the mag side piston was looking a little scuffed up.This sled looks like it has had a few minor mods,speedwerx pipe,vforce reeds,clutching,air pods,koso egt gauges,and a boondawker fuel controller. So anyways we just spent the last couple days breaking in the new top end and we've been trying to tune out that annoying mid range bog. Not making things any easier the control box screen is cracked and we can only read the left hand side of the screen. Lol. well we seem to be able to still see enuf of the screen to change between the different fuel maps and then it throws us a code, mag injector.So we check all the connectors and continue trying out the different maps.Then it seems ok,the screen shows "arctic cat m1000" so we figure great. So we start up again and now shows the code "xxx injector" which we can not find on the boondawker website? The box is pooched maybe? Also we've heard the box isn't so necessary on the 09 and earlier.So maybe we will just tear it out and try running without it? Any ideas people?
2009 M1000, issues setting the boodawker fuel controller.Safe to run without it???
- Thread starter crowsfeet
- Start date
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
Mine always threw the injector code too. Never seemed to affect the way it ran though. Just ignore it. I wouldn't run without the box if you have a pipe and intake on it. You can usually get away with that with just a can, but no more mods than that. And good luck getting the midrange bog out. I never could. Just learned to ride around it.
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Go download the control box intruction manual off boondockers website. If possible replace the control box so you can actually tune it. changing the maps doesn't help you much if the maps in there are not right, sounds like your gonna have to tune it yourself. There is a reason the box is on the sled, and if you don't like bogs I would not recommend removing it.
or replace all back to factory and remove the box will work as well.
this is what your code means;
xxx Inj. Fault! [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]this means a previous injector fault has occurred which has not yet been cleared. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][/FONT]
or replace all back to factory and remove the box will work as well.
this is what your code means;
xxx Inj. Fault! [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]this means a previous injector fault has occurred which has not yet been cleared. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][/FONT]
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
ya, seems so simple after the fact eh. bet thing you can do is download the instruction pdf and there is tuning tips and troubleshooting tips. Hard to do with half a screen tho. Highly recommend replacing the box if you want that bog gone.
- Thread starter
- #6
I'm surprised it needed a top end at 2000 miles, that's not a lot for a Cat motor. You will need a box on it with those mods, or you run the risk of it getting too lean. Midrange bog has been worked around by clutching, more fuel, less fuel, opening up the air box, etc. I think Joelkikass on here solved it on his sled. Do a search in here to find it. You can add some flowrites to the airbox to help some of it.
If you are getting injector codes or the box screen is freezing, check the ground for the box. They wiggle and jiggle and break the ground wire. If you want to check if the box is working properly, go to the fuel map screen, leave it there and go for a ride. When you stop don't shut the sled off, look at the box and it should still be on the fuel screen. If its not, the box has shut off and re-started. Mine was doing this when the ground broke.
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
Damn! That would have been handy info for me a couple years ago!
MrHankey
Active VIP Member
Hey Ken,so is this bd box ready to go?
- Thread starter
- #10
So we were trying out the sled with a newer fuel controller yesterday.Wow the m1000 has got some torque! (my ride,pro-rmk) There's still a bit of lag in the mid range but minimal.Anyhow things are all good,heading up the hill again today! Thanks again fellow snow&mudders
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
Yup. No wiring changes required, ignore that part in the instructions. The maps that are in it will need massaging for your sled though Shawn. They all run and breath different. Mine was an '07 with no reflash, and I had the bottom end leaned out quite a bit to compensate for being pig rich with the stock map. I was also running a Timbersled intake. SLP website used to have some starting numbers for various years too.
Edit: You can check the numbers that are in it by plugging the 9 volt battery into the wiring harness. Don't need it on the sled or running. Damn! I HOPE I remembered to put the battery plug in the box!
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MrHankey
Active VIP Member
Yup the battery plug was in the box as was all the instructions once again thanx ,mine is a 07 aswell no intake and not sure if it was reflashed or not.did the can line up where it turns down and out on yours?mine doesn't line up it's out about 3/4 inch it's a little to wide to make a seal with silicone
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
It did....but it was on there when I bought it, so I'm not sure if the last guy had to modify anything.
MrHankey
Active VIP Member
No worries it will still work
keep in mind the lean spot at 5600 rpm, and highly recommend an a/f gauge for tuning the box as all fuel pressures are a little different. From stock they generally run around the 12:1, when the valves open at 6300 RPM, the mapping gets progressively richer to 7500 (as low as 10.4:1). Let me know if you have questions on the set up, if you want any comparison for the numbers you're using I can give some and there are lots available from Speedwerx and on Arctic Chat.
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