Be careful!! I haven't seen the new k&n system,but if it's at all like the last one it draws warm engine air in powder conditions..The BDX kit works well....My two cents...
We installed 1 on a nytro and added a Rapid Bike 3 system to it,(took about 4 hours to create a proper map),the unit out pulls a piped Apex...(runs awesome)
Absolutely,that 800 engine loves timing advance..When riding higher elevations 91 octane is good...At elevations below 3000ft i would be tempted to run an octane boost,(just to be safe)..The timing is advanced the most before the power valves open and at WOT..The only time you have to worry...
Minimum 91 octane...How many degree's is your key? If it's 3degrees or higher,i would consider a minimum of 94 octane below 3000ft... A stock M8 in that year was 87 octane..but with your y-pipe and key way...91 minimum at low altitudes..
Don't change any clutching until you've done your mods..You have to see what rpm you are at after the mods are done before you clutch it...Also clutching depends on what you want to do with the sled...re:boondock,hillclimb,race..whatever...
Depends on which pipe you install?? SLP no fuel management system..Speedwerx you have to run a fuel management system.. From what i've seen,the SLP system is the best (pullrope) mod..The speedwerx pipe has a little more jam...
OK...To all you guys out there having issue's with your M1000 that has a bog below 6200rpm...(about 300 rpm before the power valves open).. Get your dealer to send the ECU back to A/CAT and have it reflashed again. I have done it with 3 ecu's and i have three happy customers... And if you are...
If you have had the re-flash done at your a/cat dealer you have to run leaner than stock below 6300rpm. The attitude box won't do that for you.Another helpful hint is to turn your idle screw 1/2 a turn in.Keeps them from loading up at idle..