Woman Cave

[~Rowdy~]

Figured I'd share some of the hard work I am putting into my woman cave. Sooo excited to finish it up. Work bench this weekend.

Gnome supervising gas trenching.


Garage Heater


Poly & Insulation Complete


OSB & Drywall with Trashy


Ceiling and wall paint


Concrete patch Before


Concrete patch After


2 part floor epoxy, off white walls, white ceiling.

 

[~Rowdy~]

now the question...poker or flippy cup table for fun in the garage?!

 

[Murminator]

Looks good..... need more info on the crack repair and the floor coating

 

[~Rowdy~]

Looks good..... need more info on the crack repair and the floor coating

I just used your basic quick dry cement mix, made it more soupy than usual to allow proper seepage into the crack. Once the crack was full I wet the trowel and spread it over the top to allow for a smoother finish. Let it all dry then used a sanding block (I'd have to ask my dad which kind, kind of like a rock) and sanded the ever loving Sh*t out of it to get it as smooth as possible. For that crack shown I had to pour cement in there a few times before it was full, so be prepared for that. Just used the trowel to push it in, wait for a bit until it settles as it will settle down and into the crack even though it may look full.

For the floor you need to ensure the surface is REALLY clean. I mopped, shop vac'd, swept twice. Then you do an acid wash on the floor, give it a shop vac once completely dry and a light mop again. The product that I used is as listed below, this includes the thinner and acid wash. Cloverdale Industrial is the place I go for this product. You can get it in any color, as shown in my pics is the warm grey.

- Clovamastic Low Temp Epoxy 3.78L x 2
- Clovamastic Low Temp-Activator 3.75L x 2
- Epoxy paint thinner 1 gal x 1
- 4L Muriatic Acid x 1

 

[mudd kitty]

Looks awesome. I also wanted to ask what u used for the floor. Looks way better then just cement, I think we will have to jazz ours up a bit in the near future.

 

[scotts]

I've put a lot of time of time and effort towards woman cave myself......
"you did expect anything different did you??"

 

[armymags1]

Now wtf is flippy cup

 

[~Rowdy~]

Now wtf is flippy cup

Flip cup - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Deano670]

Nice diggs Rowdy. I think we should put an engine in that there green machine of yours.

 

[DaveB]

Looks good. Slip the cable on the left drum of your garage door about 1/4 inch, then get a new bulb weather-strip....I think you can get that daylight covered up. Note: door cables under tension! Do not play! I used to install garage doors in a past life...if I lived closer I'd fix 'er up.

 

[~Rowdy~]

Looks good. Slip the cable on the left drum of your garage door about 1/4 inch, then get a new bulb weather-strip....I think you can get that daylight covered up. Note: door cables under tension! Do not play! I used to install garage doors in a past life...if I lived closer I'd fix 'er up.

The garage door was open a crack in the pic to allow air flow while drying. Not sure what cable you are talking about?!

 

[Murminator]

I just used your basic quick dry cement mix, made it more soupy than usual to allow proper seepage into the crack. Once the crack was full I wet the trowel and spread it over the top to allow for a smoother finish. Let it all dry then used a sanding block (I'd have to ask my dad which kind, kind of like a rock) and sanded the ever loving Sh*t out of it to get it as smooth as possible. For that crack shown I had to pour cement in there a few times before it was full, so be prepared for that. Just used the trowel to push it in, wait for a bit until it settles as it will settle down and into the crack even though it may look full.

For the floor you need to ensure the surface is REALLY clean. I mopped, shop vac'd, swept twice. Then you do an acid wash on the floor, give it a shop vac once completely dry and a light mop again. The product that I used is as listed below, this includes the thinner and acid wash. Cloverdale Industrial is the place I go for this product. You can get it in any color, as shown in my pics is the warm grey.

- Clovamastic Low Temp Epoxy 3.78L x 2
- Clovamastic Low Temp-Activator 3.75L x 2
- Epoxy paint thinner 1 gal x 1
- 4L Muriatic Acid x 1

Thank ya.... my garage floor has issues before i moved in 10 years ago the guy painted it month after living there started lifting up now it looks like chit i always take the pressure washer after to try to get more and more up it also has a good crack in it. I'm wanting to dump paint stripper on it and try to get the rest off and redo it all. Called a epoxy company once just about chit a brick when he told me 5-6 grand to epoxy it figure i could screw up alotta products before I hit 5 grand

 

[~Rowdy~]

Thank ya.... my garage floor has issues before i moved in 10 years ago the guy painted it month after living there started lifting up now it looks like chit i always take the pressure washer after to try to get more and more up it also has a good crack in it. I'm wanting to dump paint stripper on it and try to get the rest off and redo it all. Called a epoxy company once just about chit a brick when he told me 5-6 grand to epoxy it figure i could screw up alotta products before I hit 5 grand

My price at contractor rate was $300 for everything listed. And I used a painter to do the labour who has done a lot of work for me for $200. So $500 all in for new garage floor. Totally worth it. If you are going to use a painter to do it make sure they stir the 2 parts for 15 minutes. If it is not stirred for that long it will never set or dry properly. So I would use someone you either trust or that has done it before.

 

[froggie]

WOW!! wish my Woman Cave looked this good

 

[DaveB]

The garage door was open a crack in the pic to allow air flow while drying. Not sure what cable you are talking about?!

It just looks from your pic like your door is out of level a hair and/or the floor has a lean to it. On the old wooden doors we used to scribe the door and make it fit the floor perfectly. On the metal doors, you have to get it as level as possible, then use a puffy bulb-type weather strip. The quick way to change the level (again...I advise only someone who knows doors do it) is to carefully slip the drum on the jackshaft. There is a drum at each end with a cable that runs down to the bottom of the door on either side. The springs on the shaft is what tensions the cable and supports the weight of the door.

 

[snopro]

Rowdy I really admire your willingness to tackle stuff you have never done before. You've got a lower threshold of fear than most woman or men for that matter. Good job on another successful do it yourself project!

 

[~Rowdy~]

Rowdy I really admire your willingness to tackle stuff you have never done before. You've got a lower threshold of fear than most woman or men for that matter. Good job on another successful do it yourself project!

Thanks snopro! You are welcome to come to the garage party I'm having. Sorry...."BBQ"....it's Aug 18th. Keg, food, poker, bocce, sled videos and who knows what else. Should be fun.

 

[snopro]

Thanks ! I'll keep it in mind.

 

[medler]

Looks awesome Rowdy!!!

 

[Murminator]

Oh and I keep giggling at the thread title....Woman Cave...tehehehe