Storage over the summer

Taz56

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I did a search for the word "storage" and did not find what I was looking for so I decided to start a thread.

So I have an 08 Yamaha Venture MP. Looking to find out how to properly store it for the winter and the cheapest way to do it. I live in the city and it will be stored in my un-heated garage.


I was told to use up as much fuel as possible (without using it all) and then put in "stay-bil" in the tank.

I was told to remove the battery

I was told to lift the back end (this is where I want the advice on cost, can I shove some 2x4's under the rear cargo rack to prop it up or should I go buy something? And if so what do I buy?

What else should I do for proper storage?
 

reaper020

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Fogging is a good idea for storage. Here are the basics of snowmobile storage preparation, which I think you will find helpful.

1. Start with a thorough cleaning. Wash with a mild soap. Rinse thoroughly.
2. Apply SNOWMOBILE GREASE to the suspension and steering points indicated in the manual.
3. Lubricate suspension parts, linkages and pivot points with SPRAY LUBRICANT to fight corrosion while reducing friction.
4. Internal Engine Corrosion Protection: Use FOGGING OIL to coat internal engine parts to help prevent rust and corrosion during storage caused by moisture and acidic combustion residue.
Two-Stroke Models: With the engine warm and idling, spray fogging oil into the airbox opening for 20-30 seconds.
This procedure produces a lot of smoke so be sure to do it outside.
5. Remove the battery from the snowmobile and charge it fully. Store the battery in a cool place and recharge it as needed. Refer to your Owner's Manual for proper battery handling procedures. Next season, have your dealer perform a load test on your battery to make sure it is in good condition and ready to use.
6. Today's gasolines (particularly oxygenated formulas) tend to start deteriorating after only a month or two. Buy only as much fuel as you plan to use. All remaining gasoline should be drained from the fuel system before storage. Drain the fuel tank into a clean can approved for gasoline using a PRIMER PUMP ASSEMBLY for siphoning gasoline. (If it is still fresh, you may be able to use the leftover fuel in an automobile or other engine that uses the same gasoline grade, unless you use premix.) Place a rag under the carb drain plug, then loosen the plug to drain each carburetor. Tighten each drain plug.
WARNING: Gasoline and its vapors are highly flammable and explosive. Keep fuel away from sparks, lit cigarettes, or open flames. Work in a well-ventilated area. Dispose of gasoline-soaked rags properly.
 

Sumit 600 HO

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when u use engine fogger make sure it says 2 and 4 cycle or just 4 cycle and cycle means stroke grease all the parts when u bring it back out for the winter put new chain case oil put injection cleaner in the gas in its injected make sure its mixinle with the stayblizer check all fuel lines for cracks and leaks.
 

thump

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I do any repairs that are required. :beer: The battery I would leave in place, charge it and just remove the wires from the terminals. Check all bolts for tightness :beer:Check condition of skis, carbides,and track sliders. Drain chain case oil,pull chain case cover off and check chain and gears. Give the sled a good washing. Top up oil tank(two-stroke). Check all idler wheel bearings.I have a grease needle to give the bearings a shot of light synthetic grease. Grease suspension and steering. Give the steering ball joints a shot of spray lubricant.:beer: Pull both clutches off, clean and repair as required. Add sta-bil to tank, run sled for a couple minutes to get treated fuel to carbs. Pull carbs off and clean out bowls. I Add a cap full of 2-stroke oil to cylinders and give the rope a few pulls to coat the cyl. walls. Install new plugs. :beer:Syphon all the fuel out of the tank.(use in the lawnmower) Polish the hood, armorall the rest of the plastic and vinyl. Plug the exhaust (keeps rodents out). Put the cover on and :beer: Now when the snow returns all you have to do is add fuel and enjoy:d
 

playhard

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Your on the right track with everything the main thing is store it inside, heat and sun kills.
You say you are lifting the back which puts load on the front shocks don't forget to take the weight off all shocks.
Good Luck
 

pwdrhnd

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don't forget to take the belt off. Too much humidity and it can cause the clutches to corrode. I always leave some gas in the tank and start it every 2 or 3 weeks for a couple of minutes. With plain injection oil mixed in at 40:1.
 

white ghost

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I did a search for the word "storage" and did not find what I was looking for so I decided to start a thread.

So I have an 08 Yamaha Venture MP. Looking to find out how to properly store it for the winter and the cheapest way to do it. I live in the city and it will be stored in my un-heated garage.


I was told to use up as much fuel as possible (without using it all) and then put in "stay-bil" in the tank.

I was told to remove the battery

I was told to lift the back end (this is where I want the advice on cost, can I shove some 2x4's under the rear cargo rack to prop it up or should I go buy something? And if so what do I buy?

What else should I do for proper storage?
I think you need to ride for a few more weeks before its ready to be properly stored !:d :beer:
 

Labradorian

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I did a search for the word "storage" and did not find what I was looking for so I decided to start a thread.

So I have an 08 Yamaha Venture MP. Looking to find out how to properly store it for the winter and the cheapest way to do it. I live in the city and it will be stored in my un-heated garage.


I was told to use up as much fuel as possible (without using it all) and then put in "stay-bil" in the tank.

I was told to remove the battery

I was told to lift the back end (this is where I want the advice on cost, can I shove some 2x4's under the rear cargo rack to prop it up or should I go buy something? And if so what do I buy?

What else should I do for proper storage?

They missed one important thing you must do. Every few weeks or month..........you have to take off the cover and sit on the sled and make Brrumm Brrumm noises to keep your sanity :beer::beer::d:beer::beer:
 

sledderdoc

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I actually do very little, grease it, add stabilizer to at least half a tank of fuel ( too little fuel dries it out). And put it on a lift if you have one to keep track elevated. After that I start it every few months minimum with a cold beer in hand and enjoy the sound and smell of winter fun!!! If you leave it for longer you should fog or at least pour a little oil down each cylinder. I just found they were a bitch to start after fogging so I've quit doing it. This way works great and is more fun!! :beer::beer::d:beer::beer:
 

Wildreaper

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I actually do very little, grease it, add stabilizer to at least half a tank of fuel ( too little fuel dries it out). And put it on a lift if you have one to keep track elevated. After that I start it every few months minimum with a cold beer in hand and enjoy the sound and smell of winter fun!!! If you leave it for longer you should fog or at least pour a little oil down each cylinder. I just found they were a bitch to start after fogging so I've quit doing it. This way works great and is more fun!! :beer::beer::d:beer::beer:

I agree, this is the easy way, but I also clean the clutch's.
 

Shock

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I'm with sledderoc. I put stabilizer and fill my tank. I start it every 2 weeks. More dreaming and more beer
 

frock

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A lot of good info here. Something I discovered a couple years back that works very well is I installed a Fitch Fuel Catalyst system in both my wife and my sleds tanks. I leave the tank full and start them every few weeks and let them run till hot to prevent internal engine corrosion from condensation. This system keeps the fuel fresh all the time. I run a M7 with a 900 engine tech motor with 13.8:1 heads and run premium pump gas in it. I burned up last summers tank of fuel in it without any issues on the first ride this year, same for my wifes stock M7. If you're interested there website is Fitch Fuel Catalyst - Home.

I don't do my clutches till just before first ride because I've found that they get surface rust on the cleaned clutch shafts while sitting over the summer.

Cheers;
Shane:d
 

farmer rob

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shouldn't you put oil down the cyilnder heads to stop it from seazeing up? and if i still got 1/2 a tank of gas can i put stabilizer in the tank..and turn the fuel cut off switch to the off position and then run it our of gas so that the carbs and eveything is empty and losen the track and and grease everything would that work good?
 

Modman

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shouldn't you put oil down the cyilnder heads to stop it from seazeing up? and if i still got 1/2 a tank of gas can i put stabilizer in the tank..and turn the fuel cut off switch to the off position and then run it our of gas so that the carbs and eveything is empty and losen the track and and grease everything would that work good?

You can oil the cylinders, I didn't one year and then got scared that it might be rusting as I hadn't pulled it over in a little while (2 months), pulled the pipes and carbs and head and looked inside - all was good in the end, no rust etc. I think it depends on your location as well (humid coastline vs dry prairie). Now I pull it over a couple times a month just to keep the oil on the walls, starting and re-starting every couple weeks without getting it sufficiently hot will do more damage than good. As it cools it will draw moisture into it with the potential for condensation, or if the pipes don't get hot enough moisture will collect in the muffler and rot it out as well. Not a big issue but sometimes it happens.
 

Modman

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your sled dealer should have it or Canadian Tire or Walmart
 
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