Diamond Drive Bearing Replacement

[Rucky]

I'd assume that pretty near everyone with a cat knows about the awful bearing they put in the diamond drive. (At least on M's.... Not sure about the rest) After one season I cracked open my case and feel the need to switch to the 5203 double row sealed bearing... Just wondering if anyone has any install pictures. By the parts breakdown I can't tell how the bearings are sitting behind the gear. There was a huge thread about this on Snowest; however, you now need to be a paying member to see the WHOLE THING... Hopefully someone can help. Thanks.

 

[Rucky]

TTT No one knows nothin' about nothin'?

 

[Catman10]

Yes the bearing you are talking about is a small bearing with a litttle spacer between it and the gear. You need to remove the spacer as well, the new bearing is a double roller and it is as wide as both pieces together. If I remember right, the new bearing comes flush like it is supposed to just like the stock one did so make sure to inspect the bearing before you take it apart. If it doesnt sit the same you will have issues putting it back together, some fellows tried to force it and broke the case. I also make it a habit to check my seals and main bearings while I have it all apart and hit everything with brake cleaner and you will be off to the snow! You may know this but you can use either silicone (red) or the grey case assembly lube to put the diamond drive back together. I also can get you a part # from a buddy that just did his for the new bearing if you like. Good luck.

 

[Uturn]

Rucky, big thread on this on SW. Didn't leaf through it all to see if instructions were there.

2009-2010 Diamond Drive Bearing Failure - SnoWest Forum

 

[Blownsilver]

is this a job a guy should do just as preventive maintanence? ive got a 2010 m8

 

[Rucky]

Rucky, big thread on this on SW. Didn't leaf through it all to see if instructions were there.

2009-2010 Diamond Drive Bearing Failure - SnoWest Forum

To view the whole thread one must be a paying member of SW which I can't justify. That's why I posted here.

 

[Rucky]

Yes the bearing you are talking about is a small bearing with a litttle spacer between it and the gear. You need to remove the spacer as well, the new bearing is a double roller and it is as wide as both pieces together. If I remember right, the new bearing comes flush like it is supposed to just like the stock one did so make sure to inspect the bearing before you take it apart. If it doesnt sit the same you will have issues putting it back together, some fellows tried to force it and broke the case. I also make it a habit to check my seals and main bearings while I have it all apart and hit everything with brake cleaner and you will be off to the snow! You may know this but you can use either silicone (red) or the grey case assembly lube to put the diamond drive back together. I also can get you a part # from a buddy that just did his for the new bearing if you like. Good luck.

Thank you. I already have the double roller bearing. I just wanted to make sure I was clear on the install. The bottom gear in the case has a bit of play in if I sort of twist on it, and last season I had a slight vibration in the tunnel area (could be the track rubbing though), so I figured I might as well do this before it leaves me stranded.

 

[maxwell]

2010 no warranty?

 

[Uturn]

To view the whole thread one must be a paying member of SW which I can't justify. That's why I posted here.

I will scan the whole thread and see if they have the instructions.

 

[Catman10]

Just my 2 cents on the vibration, its slim but we have replaced bearings on 2 of my buddies sleds on the brake side. It is a pain to check as you have to take it apart but these seem to take in moisture more for some reason. My sleds have been ok up to now but I will be ripping mine apart in the next couple of weeks. I am a big fan of doing the work in a heated shop, not on the hill! Also we have had premature failure on the rollers in the secondary, they flatten out if you have the white teflon ones still in your machine especially in powder conditions with the extra heat. Look at them closely as it is sometimes hard to see the flat spots. This will also cause a vibration and some extra noise. Hope this helps.

 

[Blownsilver]

yeah i have the extended warranty but like said would rather do it in the shop than spoil a ride if its an area I might have problems would ather deal with it now when I have time instead of on the hill of parking lot just curious is all still learning the cats came off a nytro

 

[Rucky]

2010 no warranty?

I could take it to the dealer but technically it hasn't failed yet so it would be at my cost. Plus they would be replacing it with the same bearing as factory, not the double row bearing.

 

[Uturn]

Here you go Rucky, this was the best description I could find on the SW post.

This post is from silverram 323 thread on Snowest. I copied it here, but I can't answer any questions about the procedure.

And because we can only post 12 images, it will be 3 posts long!!!

Here you go guys. I took pics and installed the new bearing from bdx.

I started by taking the belt off the secondary then pull the secondary off. I then took off the bracket bolted to the foot board. That was in the way from the DD gear cover to pull straight off.

Then i took all the T-30 torx bolts out. I think 13 total.

then i gently pulled the cover off as to not tear the gasket.

then brought the cover to the work bench.

Then i pulled the lower gear off.

 

[Uturn]

I used a pitman arm puller ($15 at napa) to get the 6203 bearing off. I had to stack a 5/32 socket on the gear for clearance.

I put the pitman arm puller in the vise and pulled the 6203 bearing off.

6203 bearing thickness.

5203 bearing

Difference.

 

[Uturn]

So i took the old bearing (6203) and the shims off and pressed on the new bearing (5203) till it seated all the way down.

My cover wouldn't snug up tight so i had to loosen the 16 MM bolt inside the shaft of the brake rotor.

I then Taped on the cover and bolted it all back up. the two bottom bolts are a PITA. I used the wrench from my cat ATV to do the bottom bolts.

Tipped it on its side to fill it up.

Put the secondary clutch back on, slide the belt on and your done.
If i didn't have to take pictures i could have done it in 20 minutes.

Again, thanks to silverram 323 from Snowest for this post.

 

[Rucky]

Yes the bearing you are talking about is a small bearing with a litttle spacer between it and the gear. You need to remove the spacer as well, the new bearing is a double roller and it is as wide as both pieces together. If I remember right, the new bearing comes flush like it is supposed to just like the stock one did so make sure to inspect the bearing before you take it apart. If it doesnt sit the same you will have issues putting it back together, some fellows tried to force it and broke the case. I also make it a habit to check my seals and main bearings while I have it all apart and hit everything with brake cleaner and you will be off to the snow! You may know this but you can use either silicone (red) or the grey case assembly lube to put the diamond drive back together. I also can get you a part # from a buddy that just did his for the new bearing if you like. Good luck.

Catman, can you or anyone else verify that a press is required to get the new bearing on? Also... I'm unsure on what you mean about coming "flush" and how to ensure it fits properly. Thanks.

 

[maxwell]

a press will be required to put the new bearing on true.

 

[silverram323]

Hey guys, U turn sent me a pm saying he posted my info from snowest. Im a member on here also. Its been a while since i did mine but if you have any questions let me know.

ALL should read this write up as well.


I have other write ups also, here is one on
how to fix striped out thread on the DD case

Another one on How to change your track on a DD sled.

 

[Catman10]

Wow that is an awesome pullover thread from snowwest, good job. That explains everything perfectly. You will need a press to do this and the bearing has to be flush with the end of the shaft once pressed on and the insde bolt HAS to be taken out if you are going to do it the same way as the post. I just put White Lightning in the shop and will be working on it this week, I will post any pics that are interesting or that show damage if I have any.

 

[Rucky]

Having trouble with clearance to the cover with the new bearing. How much do you loosen the nut/bolt in the track shaft?