Diamond drive bearing upgrade thread with lots of pictures

Stg2Suby

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I'm new to Arctic Cat and recently bought a 2009 M8 with 600 miles total on it, 300 of those miles with 8psi boost. During the first shakedown ride I was concerned with the slop in the DD gearbox so took it apart for inspection.

Turns out the slop was normal and not in the gear mesh but rather caused by the clearances involved in the 2 floating carriers that hold the planetary gearset assembly.

What was alarming was the small bearing on the end of the shaft beside the sun gear was on it's way out :eek: The balls were still intact and bearing was turning in a crunchy fashion, but half the cage was destroyed and the metal bits floating in the case.

Did lots of research on this and sounds like this may be a 2009 specific problem where they used a single row bearing with a spacer where they should have used a double row bearing. Very strange the shaft is machined perfectly for the double row bearing :confused:

The solution is really basic, just buy a 5203 (3203 similar) double row bearing and press it on. The 5203/3203 is about 0.016" wider than stock bearing + spacer but this causes no issue. In fact BDX says the slightly wider bearing improves the overall assembly when it tightens up the shaft clearances a bit.

BDX sells the wide bearing upgrade or you can get one at a local bearing shop. The 3203 is same as 5303 except more angular ball/race contact for better thrust capacity. I got a high quality INA 3203-2RS from Commercial Bearing for about $30.

Overall the job is pretty basic if you're comfortable taking a chaincase / gearbox off a sled. Nothing special in rebuilding the DD regarding clearances, etc. and the only special tools are a puller and press to re/re the bearing on the shaft. I didn't have the pitman-arm style puller but Echo Cycle popped the bearing off for free :beer:

Obviously having a turbo on the sled may have caused/accelerated this failure but I'm hearing a lot of stock 2009's have had this bearing go out. Not only is the OEM bearing small to start with but it's low-quality and it sees bending moment where it's located in the assembly.

I'll post all the photos below without trying to explain every detail - feel free to ask specific questions :)
 

Stg2Suby

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Splitting case and nasty surprise with cage metal bits floating around inside
 

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Stg2Suby

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Internal components, shaft holding sun gear with failed bearing, 3203 double row bearing is 0.016" thicker than original single row brg + spacer but works fine (better according to BDX)
 

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Stg2Suby

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Pressing the bearing on. Princess Auto press is handy, cheap and comes on sale often
 

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Stg2Suby

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Assembling planetary gears piece by piece. Pretty cool little gearbox I think :cool:
 

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Stg2Suby

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Installing the gearbox on tunnel, long extensions required to get at bolt through hollow driveshaft, use soap & water as lube and hammer the rubber block in from above, I love antiseize :)
 

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KatMan

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Thanks for info. I've been digging around on the drives myself. Bought a 07 1000 used (400K) last spring and was concerned about the slop.

Will take mine apart this summer to check things out. A good idea with possible seal/bearing issues.
 

gibsons

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I have three that i have to pull this summer just for precautionary measures. thank you.
 

Rucky

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Great thread. People should know that if you are not removing the entire case from the sled, you still most likely will have to loosen the bolt from the brake side to compensate for the extra width of the bearing. Once the case-cover is back on, just torque the bolt back to spec!
 

Stg2Suby

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Thanks for the comments :)

I'm unclear where the extra 0.016" width of the bigger bearing is taken up. Because the case halves went back together flush I assume I've removed 0.016" of axial clearance that originally existed in the DD output shaft (wish I'd measured the endplay before and after doing the mod :()

My concern (supported by Rucky's comment as I interpret it) is this: when the DD is bolted back tight to the tunnel and drive axle, has the wider bearing created a zero clearance issue and hence stretching the tunnel apart slightly and putting preload on bearing(s)?

I read some folks are machining shaft shoulders or surfacing the bearing faces to compensate for the 16 thou width and others do nothing (as BDX recommended) so it would be nice to clarify the assembly clearance issue.

Some follow up notes:

1. Prying with screwdrivers and working the DD off the studs is the hardest part of the job. Getting DD back on including lining up output shaft splines with driveshaft was relatively easy.

2. Commercial Bearing has changed names to Commercial Solutions now.

3. Cover torx bolt torque in not 20 ftlb as commonly noted on some other websites; more like 3-4 ftlb or ~50 inlb.

4. I have 2 days riding with the DD bearing mod done and nothing grenaded yet :d Will be taking apart again this summer for inspection in conjunction with track swap.
 

Rucky

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Thanks for the comments :)

I'm unclear where the extra 0.016" width of the bigger bearing is taken up. Because the case halves went back together flush I assume I've removed 0.016" of axial clearance that originally existed in the DD output shaft (wish I'd measured the endplay before and after doing the mod :()

My concern (supported by Rucky's comment as I interpret it) is this: when the DD is bolted back tight to the tunnel and drive axle, has the wider bearing created a zero clearance issue and hence stretching the tunnel apart slightly and putting preload on bearing(s)?

I read some folks are machining shaft shoulders or surfacing the bearing faces to compensate for the 16 thou width and others do nothing (as BDX recommended) so it would be nice to clarify the assembly clearance issue.

Some follow up notes:

1. Prying with screwdrivers and working the DD off the studs is the hardest part of the job. Getting DD back on including lining up output shaft splines with driveshaft was relatively easy.

2. Commercial Bearing has changed names to Commercial Solutions now.

3. Cover torx bolt torque in not 20 ftlb as commonly noted on some other websites; more like 3-4 ftlb or ~50 inlb.

4. I have 2 days riding with the DD bearing mod done and nothing grenaded yet :d Will be taking apart again this summer for inspection in conjunction with track swap.

The extra 0.016" is taken up between the two ends of the driveshaft I believe. I have nearly 1000 miles since I did mine and it seems fine. I'll be having a peek this summer though.

I stripped one and half stripped another torx bolt going off the AC service manual numbers. I wasn't using my head when putting it together. It's going into aluminium and 20 ft lbs on that little bolt is far too much.
 

Firefly

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My M7 will need a fluid swap this summer so I will pay special attention to that bearing. I believe mine has the double row bearing already but I can't remember. Great write up! :beer:
 

killerrf

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yes you should check that bearing.

on my 09 m1.. when i installed the 5203 bearing i also put new bdx gears in. it was like clock work on my stock DD with the single row 6203 bearing... every 300 miles is was pooched. bearing cage starting to come apart. but with the bigger bearing ( i just took the cover off... never took the whole DD out) the outer cover would not go on all the way. so i had to grind down the bottom shaft where the 5203 bearing rests on. it took a few fit tests but finally got it where the cover pushed on or lightly tapped on and would not spring back like it did ever so slightly with the smaller bearing and stock gears did. now thinking back thats why it kept going out. side load. never paid that much attention when putting it back on. now with the bigger bearing i have at least 1100-1200 miles and i never once thought about taking it out. nothing has ever grinded in there or screwed up so i assume it should be good. this summer i will most like pull the cover and check it out. btw i also noticed that when i grinded the shaft the more the bearing came on the more my sun gear was in contact with the planet gears. you could see stock they were not fully engaged.

btw a socket and a vise are more than enough to push that bearing on....nice press though! lol!
 

catrutt

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Is it all the same parts for a 08 m8 as it does not have a gasket on the case ,will that make a difference ? Great info guys!
 

Stg2Suby

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Catrutt the 08 DD gearbox will have some extra parts in it due to the mechanical reverse. The 09+ sleds have electronic reverse ie: engine runs reverse rotation so the DD is simpler. I'd like to see inside the 08 DD so please post some pics if you rip it apart :)
 

leadfoot33

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thought this should be brought to the top :) but also i am curious did you guys have to machine the shaft? or can i slap the 5203 bearing in and go?
any pics of the machine job or if a better quality 6203 would do?
Thanks for the help guys going to tackle this job in septemeber once race season is over :)
 

eforwell

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Quick question for you....for a guy who doesnt have the press or all these tools how hard will this job be? Any idea what a dealer or mechanic would charge for this? I am looking at an 09 M8 and it has no issues right now but would be something worth looking into? Might these bearings be covered under extended warranty as well and have them done by cat dealer? Thanks for your time, EF
 
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